The following directions are one way the Assistive Device Center has successfully make a Standing Box, but adaptive design is more of an art than a science, so feel free to explore alternative designs.
Measurements to take:
A: Distance from bottom of child’s foot to bent elbow when in standing position
B: Largest width across child’s hips plus 1-2 inches
C: Depth of child from toes to back of buttocks
D: Distance from bottom of child’s foot to widest part around hips/buttocks
E: Desired width of tray (determined by space/activities student will do)
F: Desired depth of tray
- Orient a large piece of cardboard with the flutes running up and down.
- Measure the height to match the desired finished height of the standing box (A).
- The central section will be the desired width of the box (B), and the two side sections will be the desired depth(C).
- Mark ¾” strips between the sections.
- Clamp a ruler along the first line of this ¾” strip. Cut along the line with a box cutter. Clamp the ruler and cut along all the other lines with the cutter. Using needle nosed pliers, pull out the top layer of cardboard from the strip.
- Fold along the strips so that you have 90 degrees at the corners.
- You will now make an outside piece to make sure that your stander sides are solid.
- Measure the distance across the back of your folded inside piece. This will be the width of the center of your outside piece.
- Measure the outside side length of the inside piece. This will be the width of the sides of your outside piece.
- Again orient a large piece of cardboard with the flutes running up and down. Using measurements from steps 7 & 8, mark your slightly larger piece with the 3/4 inch strips separating the panels. Remove the top layer of cardboard as you did before. Fold.
- Place the larger square shape outside the smaller one to make sure it fits. Trim or sand to make an even match as needed.
- Glue the two box pieces by first gluing the two center sections. Put a liberal amount of hot melt glue in the center section of the larger outside piece. Place the smaller one on top making sure it is centered.
- When secure, glue each of the sides together. Use of a clamp is recommended so that the folded pieces will not open up. You want to make sure that you have nice 90 degree corners.
- The base will be the same width as the desired width of the tray (E).
- The length of the base will be equal to the desired depth of tray (F) plus about 6 inches. This additional 6 inches added to (F) is to ensure the stander does not tip forward (add more for a larger stander) and to make sure that it is stable.
- Round the corners of the base so that they will be less likely to crush.
- Center the box between the sides of the base.
- Draw a line across at the distance that will be the depth of the tray (F). This is where you will line up the edges of your box.
- Trace around the inside and outside of the box.
- Use a serrated knife or a jig saw to cut out this shape. Be care not to make the opening too big, or the fit of the box into the opening will be sloppy (if the fit it too tight sand or file the edges of the opening as needed).
- Cut out a second layer for the base that matches the first one but does not have a cut out.
- Glue the two base pieces together.
Attaching the Box to the Base
- Check to make sure that you have a good fit for the box into the base.
- Put a liberal amount of hot glue into the opening in the top layer of the base.
- Push the box down into the base.
Filling in the Corners of the Box
Your standing box would be functional as a square, but when the tray is added it is nice not to have gaps at the corners of the child’s belly. Therefore pieces will be added to the inside of the box to close in some of the space.
- Measure the inside corner of the box to determine the desired width of the insets.
- Angle the cuts of the sides of this piece to 45 degrees.
- Check the fit in the corner, and glue into place.
- Repeat this process for the other corner.
- You will want a good wide strap to fit snugly around the child’s hips (typically 4 inches for a toddler or wider for a larger child).
- The center of this slot should be the height from the bottom of the child’s foot to the widest part of their hips/buttocks (D).
- A general rule is to make these slots about 4 inches x 1/2 inch for small children and a bit longer for larger students.
- The slot for the strap should be about 1 inch in from the edge of the standing box.
- Use a serrated knife to carve out the slot.
- Cut a piece of Triwall that is the desired size of the tray that you have been planning from the start (E x F). Make sure that the flutes run across the tray so that is is less likely to bend if the child leans on the middle of it.
- Place the stander upside down on the center of the edge of the tray.
- Trace the inside shape of the structure to make the belly cut.
- Cut where marked.
- Cut strips for the lip that will go around the outside of the tray.
- Curve the front ends of these strips to minimize crushing.
- Glue the strips in place.
- Next make several vertical support pieces to hold up the tray.
- The flutes in these pieces should run up and down and two pieces of cardboard should be glued together for extra support.
- Supports extend from the outside of the box to within several inches of the edge of the tray.
- Typically there are two supports in front of the box and one on each side (more can be added as necessary).
- Glue the side supports 1 inch behind the strap slots.
- Glue the front supports 2 inches from each end of the back of the box.
- Quickly apply hot glue to all the top surfaces of the standing box and supports.
- Carefully place the tray on the top.
- Tape edges with water activated paper tape.
- Paint sander with semi-glass acrylic paint.